tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-298699502023-11-15T05:50:56.472-08:00Kidder, E. Receipts of Pastry and Cookery for the use of his Scholars.The Old Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00766403052971301718noreply@blogger.comBlogger1125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29869950.post-1150593584449851712006-06-17T18:15:00.000-07:002006-06-17T18:46:32.943-07:00<p align="left"><strong>Kidder, E. (Edward), 1665 or 6-1739. Receipts of pastry & cookery: for the use of his scholars.<br /></strong><br />Transcriber’s note:<br /><br />This text was transcribed several years ago from the scanned images of the manuscript produced by the University of Pennsylvania. The book is bound, with only the title page printed and the remainder being handwritten, apparently by a student.<br /><br />The images can be viewed at The <a href="http://oldsite.library.upenn.edu/etext/diaries/kidder/">University of Pennsylvania</a> site.<br /><br />The print version has been published as: Kidder, E. (Edward), 1665 or 6, -1739. Receipts of pastry & cookery: for the use of his scholars edited by David E. Schoonover (Iowa City: University of Iowa Press, c1993).<br /><br />The transcription was a small personal project, done for interest’s sake. I was not aware when I started it that there was a print version in existence, and have not seen a copy. Had I been aware of it, I almost certainly would not have made the transcription. In retrospect this may be fortunate, as I would not have learned as much as I think I did, and would not now have an easily searchable electronic text.<br /><br />Notes:<br />I have changed the long “s” into a short “s”<br />Where I have been unsure of the letters or words I have enclosed these in square brackets. Often this has happened at the inner fold of the book pages.<br />The page numbers are as in the original book.<br />The recipe numbers and index at the beginning of this transcription have been added to facilitate searching, use of the glossary etc (when this is done!)<br /><br />NOTE: Many of these recipes are, by today’s standard, quite unsafe – even dangerous. I have commented where this is most obvious. Readers are advised to procede with caution, and at their own risk.<br /><br />I would be grateful for any feedback and any suggested corrections. I can be contacted at <a href="mailto:theoldfoodie@fastmail.fm">theoldfoodie@fastmail.fm</a></p><p align="center"><br />RECEIPTS<br />OF<br />Pastry and Cookery<br />For the Use of his Scholars<br /><br />-----------------------------------<br />By ED KIDDER<br />-----------------------------------<br /><br />Who teacheth at his School<br /><br />On Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays,<br />in the Afternoon, in St Martin’s Le<br />Grand.<br /><br />And on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays,<br />in the Afternoon, at his School next<br />to Furnival’s Inn in Holborn.<br /><br />And Ladies may be taught at their own<br />Houses.<br /></p><p align="left"></p><p align="left">MS Page Recipe Title<br />Forcd Meat Balls<br />1 Sweet Balls<br />1 Savory Balls<br />1 Another Way<br />2 A Caudle for Sweet Pyes<br />2 A Lear for Savory Pyes<br />2 A Lear for Fish Pyes<br />2 A Lear for Pasties<br />3 A Ragooe for Made Dishes<br />3 A Regalia of Cowcumbers<br />3 Sweet Spice<br />3 Savory Spice<br />All Sorts of Past<br />4 Puff Past<br />4 Past for a Pasty<br />4 Past for a High Pye<br />5 Past Royall for Patty Pans<br />5 Past for a Custard<br />5 Sweet Pies<br />5 A Lamb Pye<br />6 A Chicken Pye<br />6 Mincd Pyes<br />6 Egg Pyes<br />7 Another Way<br />7 A Lumber Pye<br />7 An Artichoke Pye<br />Savory Pyes<br />8 A Lamb Pye<br />8 Another Way<br />9 A Mutton Pye<br />9 A Kid Pye<br />9 A Hare Pye<br />9 A Hen Pye<br />10 A Calves Head Pye<br />10 A Pidgeon Pye<br />10 A Neats Tongue Pye<br />11 A Venison Pye<br />11 A Lambstone & Sweetbread Pye<br />11 A Battalia Pye<br />Cold Pyes<br />12 A Veal Pye<br />12 A Swan Pye<br />13 A Turkey Pye<br />Fish Pyes<br />13 A Carp Pye<br />13 A Trout Pye<br />14 An Eele Pye<br />14 A Lamprey Pye<br />14 An Oyster Pye<br />Pastries<br />15 A Venison Pasty<br />15 A Beef Pasty<br />Florendines & Puddings<br />16 A Florendine of a Kidney of Veal<br />16 A Rice Florendine<br />17 A Florendine of Oranges & Aples<br />17 A Tourt Demoy<br />18 A Custard<br />18 An Almond Custard<br />19 A Marrow Pudding<br />19 An Almond Pudding<br />20 A Carrot Pudding<br />20 An Orange Pudding<br />20 A Tansie<br />21 A Calves Foot Pudding<br />22 A Quaking Pudding<br />Cakes<br />22 A Plumb Cake<br />23 The Iceing<br />23 A Seed Cake<br />24 A Leight Seed Cake<br />24 Chees Cakes<br />25 Portugall Cakes<br />25 Gingerbread Cakes<br />25 Another Way<br />26 Shrewsbury Cakes<br />26 Wiggs<br />Broths<br />27 Strong Broth<br />27 Gravey<br />27 Plum Porrage<br />28 Brown Pottage Royal<br />29 Pease Soop<br />29 Green Pease Soop<br />30 A Crawfish Soop<br />30 A Bisk of Pidgeons<br />31 To Boyle a Leg of Mutton<br />31 Another Way<br />31 To Boyle Rabbits<br />32 To Boyle Pidgeons<br />32 To Boyle Pullets a& Oysters<br />32 To Boyle Fouls<br />Made Dishes<br />33 Scotcht Collops<br />34 Ollives of Veal<br />34 Pidgeon Peares<br />35 A Calves Head Hasht<br />36 A Ragooe of a Breast of Veal<br />36 A Ragooe of Sweetbreads<br />37 Chickens forcd with Oysters<br />37 Bombarded Veal<br />39 A Brown Frigasee of Chicken & Rabbits<br />39 A White Frigasee of the Same<br />39 A Frigasee of Lamb<br />40 Pidgeons in Surtout<br />40 Cutlets Alamaintenoy<br />41 To Roast an Hare<br />41 To Roast it with the skin on<br />42 Pullets Ala Cream<br />42 Portugall Beef<br />43 A Leg of Mutton Ala Daub<br />43 A Leg of Mutton Ala Royal<br />44 A Leg of Mutton Forcd<br />44 Oyster Loves<br />45 To Roul a Breast of Mutton<br />45 Beef Alamode<br />46 Veal Alamode<br />46 A Ponpetone<br />47 Sausages<br />47 Polonia Sausages<br />To Dress Fish<br />48 To Boyle a Codds Head<br />48 To Butter Lobsters<br />49 To Stew Carps<br />50 To Roast a Pike<br />Potting<br />51 To Pott Beef<br />51 To Pott Pidgeons<br />Collaring<br />52 To Collar Beef<br />53 To Collar Veal<br />53 To Collar a Pigg<br />54 To Collar Eeles<br />54 To Collar Pork<br />Pickles<br />55 To Pickle Mellons or Large Cowcumbers<br />56 To Pickle Gherkins<br />56 To Pickle French Beans<br />56 To Pickle Walnuts<br />57 To Pickle Mushrooms<br />57 To Pickle Beetroot & Turnip<br />58 To Pickle Red Cabbatch<br />58 To Pickle Flowers<br />58 To Pickle Onions<br />58 To Pickle Barberries<br />58 To Pickle Smelts<br />59 To Pickle Oysters<br />59 To Pickle Pidgeons<br />59 To Pickle Tongues<br />60 To Salt Hams & Tongues<br />Jellies<br />61 Hart Horn Jelley<br />61 Calves Foot Jelley<br />62 Ribbon Jelley<br />62 To Run Colours<br />62 Blamangoes<br />63 A Whipt Syllabub<br />63 A Sack Posset<br />64 Chocolate Cream<br />64 Lemon Cream<br />65 Orange Butter<br />65 To Codle Codlings<br />66 To Bottle Gooseberries<br />The Order<br />67 First Dishes<br />67 Bottom Dishes<br />68 Side Dishes<br />68 For the Midle<br />69 Second Course<br />69 Plates<br />70 Index<br />71 Partial Recipe, different handwriting<br /><br />Page 1<br />Forcd Meat Balls<br /><br />1. Sweet Balls<br />Take part of a leg of lamb or veal & min[ce]<br />it small wth ye same quantity of beef sue[t]<br />put thereto a good quantity of currants<br />season it wth sweet spice a little lemon<br />piele 3 or 4 yolks of eggs & a few sweet<br />herbs mix it well together & make it into b[alls]<br /><br />2. Savory Balls<br />Take part of a leg of lamb or veal & minc[e]<br />it small wth ye same quantity of beef suet<br />a little lean bacon sweet herbs a shallot<br />& an anchovy beat it in a mortar till<br />tis as smooth as wax season it wth<br />savory spice & make it in to little balls<br /><br />3. Another Way<br />Take ye flesh of a foul beef suet & marro[w]<br />ye same quantity 6 or 8 oysters lean<br />bacon sweetherbs & make it into little ba[lls]<br /><br />Page 2<br /><br />4. A Caudle for Sweet Pyes<br />Take sack & white wine alike in quantity<br />a little verjuice & sugar boyle it & brew<br />it wth 2 or 3 eggs as butterd ale wn ye pyes<br />are bakd pour it in at ye funnell & shake<br />it together<br /><br />5. A Lear for Savory Pyes<br />Take clarret gravy savory spice oyster<br />liquor 2 or 3 anchovys a faggot of sweet<br />herbs & an onion boyle it up & thicken<br />it wth brown butter yn pour it into yor<br />savory pyes wn cald for<br /><br />6. A Lear for fish Pyes<br />Take clarret white wine & vineger oyster<br />liquor anchovys & drawn butter wn ye pyes<br />are bakd pour it in at ye funnell<br /><br />7. A Lear for Pasties<br />Season ye bones of that meat you make<br />yor pasty off cover ym wth water & bake<br />ym wth ye pasty yn strain ye liquor out into<br />ye pasty<br /><br />PAGE 3<br /><br />8 A Ragooe for Made Dishes<br />Take clarret gravy sweetherbs & savory<br />spice toss up in it lambstones cockscombs<br />boyld blanchd & slicd wth slicd sweetbreads<br />oysters mushrooms truffells & murrells<br />thicken these wth brown butter & use it wn cald[for]<br /><br />9. A Regalia of Cowcumbers<br />Take 12 cowcumbers & slice ym as for<br />eating put ym in a cource cloth beat<br />& squeese ym very dry flower & fry ym<br />brown yn put to ym clarret gravy<br />savory spice & a bitt of butter rould<br />up in flower toss ym up thick they are<br />sauce for mutton or lamb<br /><br />10. Sweet spice is Cloves Mace nutmeg cinnamon sugar & salt<br /><br />11. Savory spice is Pepper salt cloves mace & nutmeg<br /><br />PAGE 4<br />All Sorts of Past<br /><br />12. Puff Past<br />Lay down a pd of flower & break into it<br />2 ounces of butter& 2 eggs yn make it into<br />past wth cold water yn work ye other part<br />of ye pd of butter to ye stiffness of yor past<br />yn roul out yor past into a square piece<br />stick it all over wth bits of butter flower<br />it & roul it up like a collar double it<br />up at both ends that they meet in ye midle<br />roul it out again as aforesaid till all<br />ye pd of butter is in<br /><br />13. Past for a Pasty<br />Lay down a peck of flower work it up<br />wth 6 pd of butter & 4 eggs wth cold water.<br /><br />14. Past for a high Pye<br />Lay down a peck of flower work it up<br />wth 3 pd of butter melted in a sauce<br />pan of boyling water & make it into a<br />stiff past.<br /><br />PAGE 5<br /><br />15. Past Royall for Patty Pans<br />Lay down a pd of flower work it up wth<br />½ a pd of butter 2 ounces of fine sugar & 4 eggs<br /><br />16. Past for a Custard<br />Lay down flower & make it into a stiff<br />past wth boyling water sprinkle it wth a<br />little cold water to keep it from cracking<br /><br />Sweet Pyes<br /><br />17. A Lamb Pye<br />Cut an hind quarter of lamb into thin<br />slices season it wth sweet spice & lay ym<br />in ye pye mixt wth ½ a pd of currants ½<br />a pd of raisons of ye sun stond 2 or 3<br />spannish pottatoes boyld blanchd & sliced<br />or an artichoke bottome or 2 wth prunnelas<br />damsons gooseberries & grapes citron lemon<br />chips & oringoe roots. lay on butter & close<br />ye pye wn’ tis bakd make for it a caudle<br /><br /><br />PAGE 6<br />18. A Chicken Pye<br />Take 6 small chickens roul up a piece<br />of butter in sweet spice & put it into ym<br />yn season & lay ym in ye pye wn ye marrow<br />of 2 bones rould up in ye batter of eggs<br />wth preserves of fruit & preserves as ye lamb<br />pye wth a caudle<br /><br />19. Mincd Pyes<br />Shred a pd of neats tongue perboyld wth 2<br />pd of beef suet 2 pippins a green lemon<br />piele season it wth an ounce of sweet spice<br />a pd of sugar 2 pd of currants ½ a ­ pt of<br />currants; sack a little orange flower<br />water ye juice of 3 lemons a quarter of<br />a pd of sliced citron & lemon piele mix<br />these together & fill yor pyes<br /><br />20. Egg Pyes<br />Shred ye yolks of 20 hard eggs wth ye same<br />weight of marrow & beef suet season<br />it wth sweet spice wth citron & lemon piele<br />fill & close ye pyes<br /><br />PAGE 7<br /><br />21. Another Way<br />Shred ye yolks of 20 hard eggs wth cittro[n]<br />& lemon piele season ym wth sweet spic[e]<br />& mix ym wth a qt of custard stuff<br />ready made gather it into a body over ye fier<br />yor pyes being dryd in oven fill ym<br />wth this batter as custards wn they are<br />bakd stick ym wth slicd citron strew ym wth<br />colourd biskets.<br /><br />Note: These “pies dried in the oven” would have been made from a hard flour and water dough, not intended to be eaten, as in Recipe 16.<br /><br />22. A Lumber Pye<br />Take a pd & ½ of a fillet of veal & mince<br />it wth ye same quantity of beef suet<br />season it wth sweet spice 5 pippens an<br />handfull of spinnage & an handfull<br />of spinnage & an hard lettuce thyme &<br />parsely mix it a penny grated white<br />loaf being ye yolks of 2 or 3 eggs sack &<br />orange flower water a pd & ½ of currants<br />wth preserves as ye lamb pye & a caudle<br />An humble pye is made ye same way.<br /><br />23. An Artichoke Pye<br /><br />PAGE 8<br />Take ye bottomes of 6 or 8 artichokes<br />being boyld & sliced season ym wth sweet<br />spice mix ym wth ye marrow of 3 bones<br />wth citron & lemon piele oringoe roots<br />damsons gooseberries & graps citron lemon<br />butter & close ye pye : A Skarrot or a Potatoe pye is made ye same way.<br /><br />Savory Pyes<br /><br />24. A Lamb Pye<br />Cut an hind quarter of lamb into<br />thin slices season it wth savory spice &<br />lay ym in ye pye wth an hard lettuce &<br />artichoke bottoms ye top of an hundred<br />of asparragus lay on butter & close ye<br />pye wn tis bakd & half col pour in a<br />lear<br /><br />25. Another Way<br />Season yor lamb steaks wth savory spice<br />lay wth in ye pye wth slicd lambstones &<br />sweetbread savory balls & oysters lay on<br />butter and close ye pye A Lear<br /><br />PAGE 9<br /><br />26. A Mutton Pye<br />Season yor mutton steaks wth savory sp[ice]<br />fill ye pye lay on butter & close ye pye<br />wn tis bakd toss up an handfull of<br />chopt capers cowcumbers & oysters in<br />gravy anchovys & drawn butter<br /><br />27. A Kid Pye<br />Cut yor kid in pieces lard it wth bacon &<br />season it wth savory spice lay on butter<br />& close ye pye wn tis bakd take a qt of<br />large oysters dry ym in a cloth & fry ym<br />brown toss ym up in ½ a pt of whitewine<br />oyster liquor gravy & barberries thick[en]<br />it wth eggs & drawn butter cut up ye lid [&]<br />pour it into ye pye<br /><br />28. A Hare Pye<br />Cut it in pieces break ye bones season &<br />lay it in ye pye wth balls slicd lemon butter &<br />close ye pye<br /><br />29. A Hen Pye<br /><br />PAGE 10<br />Cut it in pieces season & lay it in ye<br />pye lay on balls yolks of hard eggs<br />sliced lemon butter and close ye pye<br />wn tis bakd pour in a lear thickend wth eggs<br />A chicken or a capon pye is made ye same way<br /><br />30. A calves head Pye<br />Almost boyle ye calves head take out<br />ye bones cut it in thin slices & season it<br />wth savory spice & mix it wth slicd sweet<br />breads shiverd pallats cockscombs<br />oysters mushrooms & balls lay on butter<br />& close ye pye A Lear<br /><br />31. A Pidgeon Pye.<br />Truss and season yor pidgeons wth savory<br />spice lard ym wth bacon & season stuff ym<br />wth forcd meat lay on lambstones &<br />sweetbreads butter & close – pye a lear<br />A chicken or a capon pye is thus made<br /><br />32. A Neats Tongue Pye<br />Half boyle yor tongues blanch and slice<br />ym season ym wth savory spice wth balls<br /><br />PAGE 11<br />Sliced lemon butter & close ye pye wn<br />tis bakd take a pt of gravy sweetbre[ads]<br />pallats & cocks combs tossd up & pour<br />into ye pye<br /><br />33. A venison Pye<br />Raise an high round pye yn shred a pd<br />of beef suet & put it in ye bottome yn<br />cut yor venison in pieces & season it wth<br />pepper & salt & lay it on ye suet lay on<br />butter & close ye pye & bake it 6 hours<br /><br />34. A Lambstone and Sweetbread Pye<br />Boyle blanch & slice ym season ym wth<br />savory spice lay ym in ye pye wth slicd<br />artichoke bottoms lay on butter &<br />close ye pye A Lear<br /><br />35. A Battalia Pye<br />Take 4 small chickens 4 squab pidgeons<br />4 suckling rabbits cut ym in pieces and sea[son]<br />ym wth savory spice & lay ym in ye pye wth<br />4 sweetbreads slicd & as many sheeps tongues<br />2 shiverd pallats 2 pair of lambstons [20]<br /><br />PAGE 12<br /><br />Or 30 cocks combs wth savory balls &<br />oysters lay on butter & close ye pye<br />wn tis bakd; & half cold fill it up wth<br />pour in a Lear<br /><br />Cold Pyes<br /><br />36. A veal Pye<br />Raise an high round pye yn cut a<br />fillet of veal in to 3 or 4 fillets season<br />it wth savory spice a little mincd sage<br />& sweet herbs lay it in ye pye wth slices<br />of bacon at ye bottome & betwixt each<br />piece lay on butter & close ye pye wn<br />tis bakd & half cold fill it up wth<br />clarrifide butter<br /><br />37. A Swan Pye<br />Skin and bone yor swan an lard it wth bacon<br />& season ym wth savory spice & a few<br />bay leaves powdered lay it in ye pye<br />stick it wth cloves lay on butter & close<br />ye pye wn tis bakd & half cold fill it up wth<br />clarrifide butter<br /><br />PAGE 13<br /><br />38. A Turkey Pye<br />Bone yor turkey season it wth savory<br />spice & lay it in ye pye wth 2 capons or<br />2 wild ducks cut in pieces to fill up<br />ye corners wn tis bakd & half cold fill<br />it up wth clarrifide butter<br />A Goose pye is made ye same way wth 2 rabb[its]<br /><br />Fish Pyes<br /><br />39. A Carp Pye<br />Bleed yor carp at ye tail open ye belley<br />Draw & wash out ye blood a little clarr[et]<br />vinegar & salt yn season yor carp wth savory<br />spice & shred sweet herbs lay on butter &<br />close ye pye wn tis bakd put into ye lear<br />ye blood & clarret & pour ^it into ye pye<br /><br />40. A Trout Pye<br /><br />Cut wash & scale ym lard ym wth pieces<br />of a silver Eele rould in sweetherbs &<br />spice & bay leaves powdered lay on & bet[ween]<br /><br />PAGE 14<br />Them slicd artichoke bottoms mushrooms<br />oysters capers dicd lemon lay on<br />butter & close ye pye<br /><br />41. An Eele Pye<br />Cut wash & season ym wth sweet spice<br />an handfull of currants butter &<br />close ye pye<br /><br />42. A Lamprey Pye<br />Cut wash & season ym wth sweet spice<br />& lay ym in ye pye wth dicd lemon citron<br />butter & close ye pye<br /><br />43. An Oyster Pye<br />Perboyle a qt of large oysters in<br />their own liquor mince ym small&<br />pound ym in a mortar wth pistastia nuts<br />marrow & sweetherbs an onion & savory<br />spice & a little grated bread or season<br />ym as aforesaid whole lay on butter &<br />close ye pye<br /><br />PAGE 15<br />Pasties<br /><br />44. A venison Pasty<br />Bone a side or haunch of venison cu[t]<br />it square & season it wth pepper & salt<br />make it up in yor aforesaid pasty pas[t]<br />a peck of flower for a buck pasty & 3<br />quarters for a doe 2 pd of beef suet at ye<br />bottome of yor buck pasty & a pd & ½ for<br />a doe<br />A Lamb pasty is made as ye doe<br /><br /><br />45. A Beef Pasty<br />Is cut out & seasond over night wth pepp[er]<br />salt a little red wine & cutchenele yn<br />made up as ye buck pasty<br />To each of these Pasties<br />pour in a Lear<br /><br />PAGE 16<br />Florendines & Puddings<br /><br />46. A Florendine of a kidney of ^veal<br />Shred ye kidney fatt & all wth a little<br />spinnage parsley & lettuce 3 pippens<br />& orang piele season it wth sweet spice<br />& sugar a good handfull of currants<br />2 or 3 grated biskets sack & orang flower<br />water 2 or 3 eggs mix it into a body &<br />put it in a dish coverd wth puff past lay<br />on a cut lid & garnish ye brim of ye dish<br /><br />47. A Rice Florendine<br />Boyle ½ a pd of rice tender in fair<br />Water yn put to it a qt of milk boyle it<br />Thick & season it wth sweet spice & sugar<br />Mix it wth 8 eggs well beat ½ a pd of<br />Currants ye marrow of 2 bones put<br />to it 3 grated biskets sack & orange<br />flower water put it in a dish being<br />coverd wth puff past & garnish ye brim<br /><br />PAGE 17<br />48. A Florendine of oranges &<br />Aples<br />Cut 6 sivill oranges in halfs save<br />ye juice pull out ye pulp & lay ym in<br />water 24 hours shiffting ym 3 or 4 tim[es]<br />yn boyle ym in 3 or 4 waters in ye 4 wa[ter]<br />put to ym a pd of fine sugar & their<br />juice boyle ym to a surrup & keep ym<br />in this surrup in an Earthen pott wn<br />you use ym cut ym in thin slices<br />Two of these oranges wi[ll]<br />make a florendine mixt wth ten pippen[s]<br />peard quartered & boyld up in water &<br />sugar lay ym in a dish being coverd wth<br />puff past lay on a cut lid & garnish<br />ye brim - - - -<br /><br />49. A Tourt Demoy<br />Beat ½ a pd of blanchd almonds in [a]<br />mortar wth a quarter of a pd of citro[n]<br />ye white of a capon 4 grated bisket[s]<br />sweet spice& sugar sack & orange flo[wer]<br /><br />PAGE 18<br />Water yn mix it wth a pt of cream &<br />7 eggs being well beat bring all<br />these ingredients to a body over<br />ye fier & having a dish coverd wth<br />puff past lay part of it into ye bottom<br />yn put in ye marrow of 2 bones in<br />pieces sqeese on it ye juice of a lemon<br />& lay on ye other part of ye ingredients<br />yn cover it wth a cut lid<br /><br /><br />50. A Custard<br />Boyle a qt of cream or milk wth a stick<br />of cinnamon a quartered nutmeg & large<br />mace wn half cold mix wth it 8 yolks of<br />eggs & 4 whites well beat sugar sack & orange<br />flower water set it on ye fier & stirr it till<br />a white froth ariseth scum it off yn fill<br />yor custard being dryd in ye oven<br /><br />51. An Almond Custard<br />Blanch & beat ym in a mortar very<br />fine in ye beating ad thereto a little<br />milk press it thro’ a sive & make it as<br />aforesaid<br /><br />PAGE 19<br /><br />52. A Marrow Pudding<br />Boyle a qt of cream or milk wth a stick [of]<br />cinnamon a quartered nutmeg & large ma[ce]<br />yn mix it wth 8 eggs well beat a little<br />salt sugar sack and orang flower water<br />strain it yn put to it 3 grated biskets<br />an handfull of currants as many raisons<br />of ye sun ye marrow of 2 bones all to 4 larg[e]<br />pieces yn gather it to a body over ye fier<br />& put it in a dish having ye brim therof<br />garnishd wth puff past& raisd in oven<br />yn lay on ye 4 pieces of marrow colourd<br />knots & pasts slicd citron & lemon piele ½ an hour<br />will bake<br /><br />53. An Almond Pudding<br />Take ½ a pd of jordan almonds blanch & [pound]<br />ym in a mortar wth a quarter of a pd of pist[astia]<br />nuts 4 grated biskets 3 quarters of a pd of<br />butter sack and orange flower water & mix<br />it wth a qt of cream being boyld & mixt wth<br />8 eggs sweet spice & sugar pour it into ye<br />dish being coverd & garnished wth puff past<br />& garnish ye brim<br /><br />PAGE 20<br /><br />54. A Carrot Pudding<br />Boyle 2 large carrots wn cold pound ym<br />in a mortar & strain ym thro’ a sive mix<br />ym wth 2 grated biskets ½ a pd of butter<br />sack & orange flower water sugar & a<br />little salt a pt of cream mixt wth 4 yolks<br />of eggs & 2 whites beat these together &<br />put ym in a dish being coverd wth puff<br />past & garnish ye brim<br /><br />55. An orange Pudding<br />Take ye pieles of 2 sivill oranges<br />boyld up as for a florendine of oranges<br />& aples pound & season ym as ye carrots<br /><br />56. A Tansie<br />Boyle a qt of cream or milk wth a stick<br />of cinnamon a quartered nutmeg & large<br />mace wn half cold mix it wth 20 yolks<br />of eggs & 10 whites strain it yn put to it<br />4 grated biskets ½ a pd of butter a pt<br />of spinnage juice & a little tansie sack<br />and orange flower water sugar & a little<br />salt gather it into a body over ye fier &<br /><br />PAGE 21<br />Pour it in to yor dish being well butt[ered]<br />wn tis bakd turn it on a pye plate sque[ese]<br />on it an orange grate on sugar garn[ish]<br />it wth slicd orange & a little tansie made<br />in a plate cut as you please<br /><br />57. A Calves foot Pudding<br />Take 2 calves feet shred ym very fine<br />& mix ym wth a penny grated white<br />loaf being scalded wth a pt of cream<br />put to it a ½ a pd of shred beef suet & 8<br />eggs an handfull of plumpt currants<br />season it wth sweet spice & sugar a little<br />sack & orange flower water ye marrow<br />of 2 bones put it in a veal caul being<br />washd over wth ye batter of eggs wth wett<br />a cloth & put it therein tye it up close wn<br />ye pott boyls put it in boyle it about<br />2 hours yn turn it in a dish stick on it<br />slicd almonds & citron yn pour on it<br />sack lemon juice sugar & drawn butter<br /><br />PAGE 22<br /><br />58. A quaking Pudding<br />Take a qt of cream & beat 3 or 4 spoon<br />fulls wth 2 or 3 spoonfulls of flower<br />of rice a penny grated white loaf & 7<br />eggs put to it orange flower water<br />sugar & sweet spices butter ye cloth &<br />tye it up but not too close wn ye pott<br />boyles put it in boyle it an hour yn<br />put it in a dish stick it wth slicd citron<br />let ye sauce be sack & orange flower<br />water wth lemon juice sugar & drawn butter<br /><br />Cakes<br /><br />59. A Plumb Cake<br />Take 6 pd of currants 4 pd of flower an<br />ounce of cloves & mace a little cinnamon<br />½ an ounce of nutmegs ½ a pd of pounded<br />and blanchd amonds ½ a pd of sugar 3<br />quarters of a pd of sliced citron lemon<br />& orange piele ½ a pt of sack a little<br />hony water a qt of good ale yest a qt of<br /><br />PAGE 23<br />Cream & a pd and a half of butter milt[ed]<br />therein mix it well together on abo[ard]<br />lay it before ye fier to rise yn work it<br />up smooth put it in an hoop wth a paper<br />flowerd at ye bottome<br /><br />60. The Iceing<br />Beat & sift a pd of double refined sugar<br />& put to it ye whites of 4 eggs put in<br />but one at a time beat ym in a bason<br />wth a silver spoon till tis very leight & whit[e]<br /><br />61. A Seed Cake<br />Take 2 pd of smooth carraways 6 pd of<br />flower ½ a pd of sugar an ounce of spice<br />yn make an hole in ye flower & put in<br />a pt of yest & 8 eggs well beat ½ a<br />pt of sack a little orange flower water<br />a pt of milk & 2 pd of butter warmd<br />together yn strew a little flower there[on]<br />let it lye to rise yn put it in an hoop<br />& strew over it double refined sugar & rough<br />carraways<br /><br />PAGE 24<br />62. A Leight Seed Cake<br />Take ½ a quartern of flower a little<br />ginger nutmeg 3 spoonfulls of ale<br />yest & 3 eggs well beat 3 quarter of a<br />pt of milk ½ a pd of butter & 6 ounces<br />of smooth carraways work it in warm<br />together wth yor hands<br /><br />63. Chees Cakes<br />Boyle a qt of cream or milk wth 8<br />eggs well beat stir it till tis a curd<br />yn strain it & mix it wth ye curd of 3 qts<br />of milk 3 quarters of a pd of fresh butter<br />2 grated biskets 2 ounces of blanchd<br />almonds pounded wth a little sack & orang<br />flower water ½ a pd of currants & 7 eggs<br />spice & sugar beat it up wth a little cream<br />till tis very light yn fill up yor chees cakes<br /><br />You may make chees cakes ye same<br />way wth ye curd of a gallon of milk<br />with out ye egg curd<br /><br />PAGE 25<br />64. Portugall Cakes<br />Put a pd of fine sugar & a pd of fresh<br />butter 5 eggs & a little beaten mace<br />into a flatt pan beat it up wth yor<br />hands till tis very leight & looks<br />curdling yn put thereto a pd of flower<br />½ a pd of currants very clean pickt &<br />dryd beat yn together fill yor hart pan<br />& bake ym in a slack oven<br />You may make seed cakes ye same way<br />only put carraway seeds instead of currants<br /><br />65. Gingerbread Cakes<br />Take 3 pd of flower a pd of sugar a<br />pd of butter rubbed very fine an ounce of<br />ginger & a grated nutmeg mix it wth a<br />pd of treacle & a quarter of a pt of cream<br />warmd together yn make up yor bread<br />stiff roul ym out cut ym in little cakes<br />bake ym in a slack oven<br /><br />66. Another Way<br /><br />PAGE 26<br />Take a quartern of flower 2 pd and 3<br />quarters of treacle & ½ a pd of butter<br />warmd together an ounce of ginger ½ an<br />ounce of carraway & coriander seeds<br />bruisd make it into large cakes put in<br />to either of ym what sweetmeat you<br />please wn they are bakd dip ym in boyling<br />water to glase ym<br /><br />67. Shewsbury Cakes<br />Take a pd of fresh butter a pd of double<br />refind sugar sifted fine a little beaten<br />mace & 4 eggs beat ym all together wth<br />yor hands till tis very leight & looks<br />curdling yn put thereto a pd & ½ of<br />flower roul ym out into little cakes<br /><br />68. Wiggs<br />Take a quartern of flower ½ a pd of sugar<br />an handfull of carraway seeds yn put<br />into ye midle of ye flower ½ a pt of yest<br />wth a pd & ½ of butter melted in a pt of<br />milk & pourd to ye yest stirring it<br />wth yor hands strew flower let it lye to<br />rise yn makeup yor wiggs<br /><br />PAGE 27<br />Broths<br /><br />69. Strong Broth<br />Take 3 or 4 gallons of water put to it [a]<br />leg of shin of beef cut into 5 or 6 pie[ces]<br />boyle it 12 hours now & then stirr it wth<br />a stick & cover it close wn tis boyld strain<br />& coole it let it stand till twill jelley<br />yn take ye fatt from ye top & ye dross from<br />ye bottome<br /><br />70. Gravey<br />Cut a pices of beef into thin slices & fry<br />ym brown in a stew pan wth 2 or 3 onions<br />2 or 3 lean slices of bacon yn pour to [it]<br />a ladle or 2 of stong broth rubbing<br />ye brown off from ye pan very clear &<br />ad to it more strong broth clarret<br />white wine anchovys a faggot of swe[et]<br />herbs season it and let it stew very well<br />yn strain it off<br /><br />71. Plum Porrage<br /><br />PAGE 28<br />Take 2 gallons of strong broth put<br />to it 2 pd of currants 2 pd of raisons of ye<br />sun ½ an ounce of sweet spice a pd of<br />sugar a quart of sack clarret a pt of<br />sack ye juice of 3 oranges & 3 lemons<br />thicken it wth grated biskets wth a pd of<br />pruants<br /><br />72. Brown Pottage Royall<br />Set a gallon of strong broth on ye fier wth<br />2 shiverd pallats cocks combs lambstones<br />slicd wth savory balls a pt of gravy 2<br />handfulls of spinnage parsley & ^ young lettuce<br />mincd boyle these together wth a duck ye<br />leg and wing bones being broak & pulled<br />out & ye breast sloshed & brownd in a pan<br />of fatt yn put to it 2 french rouls slicd<br />& dryd hard & brown put ye pottage in<br />a dish & ye duck in ye middle lay<br />about it a little vermachelly boyld<br />up wth a little strong broth savory<br />balls & sweet breads garnish it wth<br />scalded parsley turnip beetroot & barberries<br /><br />PAGE 29<br />73. Pease Soop<br />Boyle a qt of good seed pease tender<br />& thick strain & wash it thro’ wth a pt of<br />milk yn put thereto a pt of strong bro[th]<br />boyld wth balls a little spiremint & a<br />dryd french roul season it wth pepper &<br />salt cut a turnip in dice fry it an put it [in]<br /><br />74. Green Peas Soop<br />Wipe yor pescods sheal & scald ye shells<br />strain & pound ye shells ym in a mortar<br />wth scalded parsley young onions & a little<br />mint yn soak a french roul boyle these<br />together in clear mutton broth a faggot<br />of sweet herbs seasond wth pepper salt<br />& nutmeg yn strain it thro’ a culender<br />put ye pottage in a dish & put in ye<br />midle a forcd fowl chicken or rabbit<br />garnish it wth scalded parsely & cab[bage]<br />lettuce<br /><br />PAGE 30<br />75. Crawfish Soop<br />Cleanse yor crawfish boyle ym in water<br />salt & spice pull off their feet & tails<br />& fry ym break ye rest of ym in a stone<br />mortar season ym wth savory spice & an<br />onion hard eggs grated bread & sweet<br />herbs boyld in strong broth strain it<br />& put to it scalded chopt parsley & french<br />rouls yn put them therein wth a few dryd<br />mushrooms garnish ye dish wth slicd<br />lemon & ye feet & tails of ye crawfish<br /><br />76. A Bisk of Pidgeons<br />Yor pigeons being clean washd & perboyld<br />put ym into strong broth & stew ym yn<br />make for ym a ragoo wth gravy artichoke<br />bottoms pottatoes & onions savory spice<br />lemon juice & dicd lemon & bacon cut as<br />for larding wth mushrooms truffels &<br />pour ye broth into ye dish having dryd<br />carved sippets yn place yor pigeons &<br />pour on ye ragooe wth ½ a pt of hott cream<br />garnish it wth scalded parsley beetroot & lemon<br /><br />PAGE 31<br />77. To Boyle a Leg of Mutton<br />Boyle yor mutton in water & salt as us[ual]<br />for sauce toss up a lttle strong bro[th]<br />gravy pickled cowcumbers & samphir shred[ded]<br />a dicd lemon white wine salt & nutmeg gra[ted]<br />bread thicken it wth eggs and a little but[ter]<br />roul up in flower<br /><br />78. Another Way<br />Lard yor mutton wth lemon piele & beetro[ot]<br />boyle it as usuall let ye sauce be strong<br />broth white wine gravy oysters anchovys<br />& onions a faggot of sweetherbs savory sp[ice]<br />& a piece of buttter rould up in flower<br /><br />79. To Boyle Rabbits<br />Truss ym for boyling & lard ym wth bacon<br />yn boyle ym quick & white for ye sauce<br />take ye boyld liver shred it wth fatt<br />bacon toss these up together in strong<br />broth white wine & vinegar mace sal[t]<br />nutmeg set parsley mincd ; barberries &<br /><br />PAGE 32<br />Drawn butter lay yor rabbits in a<br />dish pour ye lear all over ym & garsh<br />ym wth slicd lemon & barberries<br /><br />80. To Boyle Pidgeons<br />Stuff yor pidgeons wth sweet herbs chopt<br />bacon a little grated bread butter &<br />spice ye yolk of an egg yn boyle ym as<br />aforesaid & garnish it wth slicd lemon & barberries<br /><br />81. To Boyle Pullets & oysters<br />Boyle ym in water & salt wth a good piece<br />of bacon for sauce draw up a pd of<br />butter wth a little white wine strong broth<br />& a qt of oysters yn put yor 3 pullets in<br />a dish cut ye bacon & lay about ym wth<br />a pd & ½ of fryd sausages & garnish it wth<br />slicd lemon<br /><br />82. To Boyle Fowls<br />Boyle ym as usuall for ye sauce toss<br />up sweetbreads artichoke bottoms<br />lambstons cocks combs & hard eggs<br />all slicd in strong broth & white<br />wine wth pistastia nuts asparagus<br /><br />PAGE 33<br />Tops & spice thicken it wth a bitt of<br />butter rould up in flower & garnish<br />it wth slicd lemon<br /><br />Made Dishes<br /><br />83. Scotcht Collops<br />Take ye skin from a fillet of veal & cut<br />it into thin collops hack & scotch ym wth ye<br />back of a knife lard half of ym wth bacon<br />fry ym wth a little brown butter yn<br />take ym out and put ym into another tossing<br />pan yn set ye pan they were fryd in<br />over ye fier again wash it out wth<br />a little strong broth rubbing it wth<br />yor ladle yn pour it to ye collops do<br />this to every panfull till all are<br />fryd yn stew & toss ym up wth a pt of<br />oysters 2 anchovys 2 shiverd pallats<br />cockcombs lambstones & savory balls<br />slicd sweetbreads onions a faggot of sweet<br />herbs thicken it wth brown butter & garnish<br />it wth slicd orange & lemon<br /><br />PAGE 34.<br /><br />84. Ollives of veal<br />Take 8 or 10 scotcht collops wash ym over<br />wth ye batter of eggs yn season & lay<br />over ym a little forcd meat roul ym<br />up & roast ym yn make for ym a ragooe<br />as ye collops & garnish ym wth slicd orang<br /><br />85. Pidgeon Peares<br />Bone yor pidgeons all but one leg<br />& put that thro’ ye side out at ye ven[t]<br />cut off ye toes & fill ym wth forcd meat made<br />of ye hart & liver & cover ym wth a tender<br />forcd meat being washd over wth ye batter<br />of eggs & shape ym like peares yn wash<br />ym over & roul ym in scalded chopt<br />parsley spinnage cover ym wth thin<br />slices of bacon & put ym in bladers<br />boyle ym an hour & ½ yn take ym out<br />of ye bladers lay ym before ye fier ½<br />an hour yn make for ym a ragooe<br />& garnish ym with slicd lemon - -<br /><br />PAGE 35<br />86. A Calves head Hasht<br />Yor calves head being slitt & cleansd<br />half boyld & cold cut one side into thin<br />slices & fry it in a pan of brown butter<br />yn having a toss pan on ye stove wth a<br />pt of gravy as much strong broth wth<br />quarter of a pt of clarret as much<br />white wine & an handfull of savory<br />balls 2 or 3 shiverd pallats a pt of<br />oysters cocks combs lambstones & sweet<br />breads boyld blanchd & slicd wth mushrooms<br />truffels & murrells 2 or 3 anchovys<br />as many shallots & a faggot of sweetherbs<br />tossed up & stewd together season it wth<br />savory spice yn scotch ye other side<br />cross & cross flower bast & boyle it<br />The hash being thickened wth brown<br />butter put it in ye dish lay over & above<br />it fryd balls and ye tongue slicd & larded<br />wth bacon lemon piele & beetroot yn fry<br />in ye batter of eggs slicd sweetbreads carvd<br />sippets & oysters lay in ye head & place<br /><br />PAGE 36<br />These on & about ye dish & garnish it<br />wth slicd orange & lemon<br /><br />87. A Ragooe of a breast of veal<br />Bone a breast of veal cut an handsom<br />square piece yn cut ye other part into<br />small pieces brown it in butter yn stew<br />& toss it up in a pt of gravy a little<br />clarret white wine & strong broth an<br />onion 2 or 3 anchovys cocks combs<br />lambstones & sweetbreads blanchd &<br />slicd wth savory balls oysters truffells<br />& murrells & mushrooms savory spice<br />& lemon juice yn toss it up thicken it<br />wth brown butter put ye ragooe in ye dish<br />lay on ye square piece dicd lemon<br />sweetbreads sippets & bacon fryd in<br />ye batter of eggs & garnish it wth slicd<br />oranges<br /><br />88. A Ragooe of Sweet breads<br />Set lard & force ye sweetbreads wth<br />mushrooms truffells ye tender ends<br />of pallates cocks combs boyld tender<br />beat it in a mortar mixt wth fine<br /><br />PAGE 37<br />Herbs & spice a little grated bread &<br />an egg or 2 yn fry ym thus forcd & toss<br />ym up in gravy clarret white wine wth<br />cocks combs & mushrooms spice & oyst[ers]<br />a dicd lemon thicken it wth brown butt[er]<br />& garnish it wth slicd lemon & barberries<br /><br />89. Chickens forcd wth Oysters<br />Lard & truss ym make a forcing of oyster[s]<br />sweetbreads parsley truffells mushroom[s]<br />& onions chop these together & season<br />it mix it wth a piece of butter ye yolk of<br />an egg tye ym at both ends & roast ym<br />yn make for ym a ragooe & garnish it<br />wth slicd lemon<br /><br />90. Bombarded veal<br />Take a fillet of veal & cut out of it 5<br />lean pieces as thick as yor hand [roul]<br />ym up a little lard ym very thick<br />on ye slashd side of round side lard<br />5 sheeps tongues being boyld & blanchd<br /><br />PAGE 38<br />Make a well seasond forcd meat wth<br />veal lean bacon beef suet & an anchovy<br />roul it up into a ball being well<br />beat yn make another tender forcd meat<br />wth veal fatt bacon beef suet mushrooms<br />spinnage parsley thyme sweet<br />marjoram winter savory and green<br />onions season & beat it yn put yor<br />forcd ball into part of this forcd<br />meat put it in a veal caul & bake<br />it in a lttle pott yn roul up that<br />which is left in another veal wett<br />wth ye batter of eggs roul it up like<br />a polonia sausage tye it at both ends<br />& slightly round & boyle it - - -<br />Yor forcd ball being bakd put it<br />in ye midle of ye dish lay over & about<br />it fryd balls & ye tongues fryd brown<br />between each yn pour on ym a ragooe<br />lay about it ye other forcd meat cut<br />as thin as an half crown & fryd in<br />ye batter of eggs & squeese on it an<br />orange & garnish it wth slicd orange &<br />lemon<br /><br />PAGE 39<br /><br />91. A Brown Frigasee of Chicken<br />and Rabbits<br />Cut ymin pieces & fry ym in brown butter<br />having ready hott a pt of gravy a little<br />clarret white wine & strong broth 2<br />anchovys 2 shiverd pallates a faggot of<br />sweet herbs savory balls & spice thicken<br />it wth brown butter & squeese on it a lemon<br /><br />92. A White Frigasee of ye Same<br />Cut ym in pieces wash ym from ye blood<br />fry ym on a soft fier & put ym in a tossing<br />pan wth a little strong broth season ym &<br />toss ym up wn almost enough put to ym a<br />pt of cream mushrooms & oysters thicken<br />it wth a bitt of butter rould up in flower<br /><br />93. A Frigasee of Lamb<br />Cut an hind quarter of lamb into thin<br />slices & season it wth savory spice &<br />shred sweetherbs & a shallot & fry ym yn<br /><br />PAGE 4O<br />Fry ym thus forcd & toss ym up in strong<br />broth & white wine oysters balls & pallets<br />a little brown butter or an egg or 2 to<br />thicken it or a bitt of butter rould up in<br />flower garnish it wth slicd lemon<br /><br />94. Pidgeons in Surtout<br />Cleanse yor pidgeons yn make a forcing<br />for ym tye a large scotcht collop on ye<br />breast of each spitt & cover ym wth paper<br />& roast ym yn make for ym a ragooe &<br />garnish ym wth slicd orange - -<br /><br />95. Cutlets Alamaintenoy<br />Season yor cutlets of mutton wth savory<br />spice & shred sweetherbs yn dip 2 scotched<br />collops on ye batter of eggs & clap on<br />each side of each cutlet & yn a rasher<br />of bacon on each side broyle ym or<br />bring ym off in ye oven wn they are<br />dresst take of ye bacon & send up yor<br />collops & cutlets wrapt in clean white<br />paper as letters or you may leave ym<br />out & send ym up in a ragooe & garsh it wth slicd lemon<br />& orange<br /><br />PAGE 41<br /><br />96. To Roast an Hare<br />Set & lard it wth bacon make for it a<br />pudding of grated bread ye hart & liver<br />being perboyld & chopt small wth beef<br />suet & sweet herbs mixt wth marrow cream<br />spice & eggs yn sow up his belley &<br />roast him wn tis roasted let yor butter<br />be drawn up wth cream gravy or clarret<br /><br />97. To Roast it wth the Skin on<br />Make ye puddinng as aforesaid sow up<br />his belley & thurst yor hand round<br />him between his skin & his body &<br />rub over his flesh wth butter & spice<br />& sow up his belley and thurst yor hand<br />round him between his skin & his body<br />& rub over his flesh wth butter & spice<br />& sow up ye his ye hole of ye skin &<br />roast him basting of him wth boyling<br />water & salt till tis above half roast<br />yn let him dry & ye skin smoak pull it<br /><br />PAGE 42<br />By pieces yn bast him wth butter dradg<br />him wth flower bread & spice sauce him<br />as aforesaid & garnish it wth slicd lemon<br /><br />98. Pullets Ala Cream<br />Lard & force yor pullets of their own<br />flesh boyled ham mushrooms sweetbreads<br />oysters anchovys grated bread ye yolk<br />of an egg a little cream spice & herbs<br />roast ym yn pour on ym a fine white<br />ragooe of mushrooms oysters sweet<br />breads cocks combs trufflees murrells<br />& cream thickend wth eggs - - -<br /><br />99. Portugall Beef<br />Brown ye thin of a rump of beef in a<br />pan of brown butter & force ye lean<br />of it wth suet bacon boyld cheesnuts<br />anchovys savory spice & an onion<br />stew it in a pan of strong broth till<br />tis very tender yn make for it a ragooe<br />wth gravy pickled cowcumbers boyld<br />cheesnuts thicken it wth brown butter<br />& garnish it wth slicd lemon<br /><br />PAGE 43<br /><br />100. A Leg of Mutton Ala Daub<br />Lard yor meat wth bacon half roast<br />it draw it off ye spitt & put it in as<br />small a pott as will boyle it putt to<br />it a qt of white wine strong broth a [pt]<br />of vineger whole spice bay leaves<br />sweet marjoram winter savory & green<br />onions wn ye meat is ready make sauce<br />wth some of ye liquor mushrooms dicd<br />lemon 2 or 3 anchovys thicken it wth<br />brown butter & garnish it wth slicd lemon<br /><br />101. A Leg of Mutton Ala Royal[l]<br />Lard yor mutton & slices of veal wth bacon<br />rould up in spice & sweetherbs yn bring<br />ym to a brown in milted lard boyle [ye ]<br />leg in strong broth all sorts of sweet<br />herbs an onion stuck wth cloves wn [tis]<br />ready lay it in a dish lay round it ye<br />collops yn pour on a ragooe & garnish<br />it wth slicd orange & lemon<br /><br />PAGE 44<br /><br />102. A Leg of Mutton Forcd<br />Take ye meat out of ye leg close to ye<br />skin & bone mince it wth a pd of beef<br />suet & a good quantitiy of thyme parsley<br />& onions beat it in a mortar till tis<br />as smooth as wax season it wth savory<br />spice & 2 anchovys yn wash ye inside of<br />ye skin wth ye batter of eggs & fill it<br />bast flower & bake it ye sauce may<br />be seasond gravy & put to it a regalia<br />of cowcumbers colliflowers & french beans<br /><br />103. Oyster Loves<br />Cut a round hole in ye tops of 5 french<br />rouls & take out all ye crumbs & smear ym<br />over ye sides wth a tender forcd meat made<br />of set oysters part of an Eele pistastia<br />nuts mushrooms herbs anchovys<br />marrow spice ye yolks of 2 hard eggs<br />beat these together in a mortar wth<br />one raw egg yn fry ym crisp in lard<br />& fill ym wth a qt of oysters ye rest of ye<br />Eele cut like lard spice mushrooms<br /><br />PAGE 45<br />Anchovys tossd up in their liquor ½ a<br />pt of white wine thicken it wth eggs & a<br />bitt of butter rould up in flower<br /><br />104. To Roul a breast of mutton<br />Bone ye mutton make a savory forcd<br />meat for it wash it over wth ye batter<br />of eggs yn spread ye forcd meat on it roul<br />it in an hard collar & bind it wth pack<br />thread & roast it put under it a regalia<br />of cowcumbers<br /><br />105. Beef Alamode<br />Take a good buttock of beef interlarded<br />wth great lard rould up in savory spice<br />mincd sage parsley thyme & green onion<br />put it in a great saucepan & cover[ it]<br />close wth course past wn tis half don [turn]<br />it let it stand over ye fier on a stove<br />12 hours or in an oven this is fitt to<br />eat cold or if to be eaten hott<br />you may slice it out thin wn tis cold<br /><br />PAGE 46<br />And toss it up in a fine ragooe.<br /><br />106. veal Alamode<br />Take a good fillet of veal interlarded<br />as ye beef ad to ye stewing of it a<br />little white wine wn tis cold you may<br />slice it out thin & toss it up in a ragoo<br />of mushrooms<br /><br />107. A Poppetone<br />Take a good fillet of veal & mince<br />it small wth ye same quantity of beef<br />suet beat it wth an egg or 2 to bind it<br />season it wth savory spice make it in<br />to ye form of a thick round pye &<br />fill it thus lay in thin slices of bacon<br />squab pidgeons sliced sweetbreads<br />tops of asparragus mushrooms<br />yolks of hard eggs ye tender ends<br />of shiverd pallats & cocks combs<br />boyld blanchd & slicd<br /><br />PAGE 47<br />108. Sausages<br />Take pork more lean then fatt &[shred]<br />it yn take of ye flead of pork & minc[e]<br />it season each apart wth mincd sage [&]<br />pritty high wth savory spice yn clea[n]<br />yor small guts & fill ym mixing some<br />bitts of fatt between ye mincd meat<br />sprinkle a little wine with it & twill<br />fill ye better yn tye ym in links<br /><br />109. Polonia Sausages<br />Take a piece of red gammon of bacon<br />& half boyle it mince it wth as much<br />bacon lard put to it mincd sage & pr[itty]<br />high wth savory spice yn clear yor small<br />guts & fill ym mixing some bitts of fatt<br />ye yolks of eggs & as much red wine as<br />will bring it to a pritty high thick [body]<br />mix ym wth yor hands & fill ym in large<br />skins hang ym in a chimney a while to<br />dry<br /><br />PAGE 48<br />To Dress Fish<br /><br />110. To Boyle a Codds head<br />Set a kettle on ye fier wth water vineger<br />& salt a faggot of sweetherbs & an onion<br />or 2 wn ye liquor boyls put in ye head<br />on a fish plate in ye boyling put in<br />cold water & vineger wn tis boyld drain<br />& spounge it for ye sauce take gravy<br />& clarret boyld up wth a faggot of sweet<br />herbs & an onion 2 or 3 anchovys<br />drawn up wth 2 pd of drawn butter ½<br />a pt of shrimps & ye meat of a lobster<br />shred fine in ye beat yn put in ye head<br />on a fish plate in ye boyling; in a<br />dish pour ye sauce thereon stick small<br />toasts on ye head lay on & about it<br />ye spaune milt & liver & garnish it wth<br />slicd lemon & barberries<br /><br />111. To Butter Lobsters<br />Take out ye meat & put it in a saucepan<br /><br />PAGE 49<br />With a little seasond gravy & nutmeg<br />a little vineger & drawn butter fill ye<br />shells & set ye rest in plates<br /><br />112. To Stew Carps<br />Take a brace of living carps knock ym<br />on ye head open ye bellies wash out ye<br />blood wth vineger & salt yn cut ym close<br />to ye tail to ye bone & wash ym clean<br />yn put ym in a broad saucepan & put<br />thereto a qt of clarret ½ a pt of white wine<br />½ a pt of vineger a pt of water a faggot of<br />sweetherbs a nutmeg slicd large mace 4<br />or 5 cloves 2 or 3 races of ginger whole<br />pepper & an anchovy cover ym close &<br />stew ym a quarter of an hour yn put to it<br />ye blood of ye carps &amp;amp; a ladle of drawn<br />butter; ½ a pt of shrimps & ye meat of a<br />lobster shred fine; lay about it ye<br />spaun milt & liver stick on ym toasts<br />& eat ye lear as broth or thicken it wth<br />brown butter<br /><br />113. A Carp Larded wth Eele in a ragoo[e]<br /><br />PAGE 50<br />Take a live carp scale & slice him<br />from head to tail in 4 or 5 slices or ye<br />one side to ye bone yn take a good a good<br />silver Eele & cut it as for larding as<br />long and thick as yor little finger rould<br />in sweetherbs powdered bay leaves &<br />savory spice yn lard it thick on ye slashd<br />side fry it in a good pan of lard yn<br />make for it a ragooe wth gravy white<br />wine vineger clarret ye spaune mushrooms<br />capers grated nutmeg mace a little pepper<br />& salt thicken it wth brown butter &<br />garnish it wth slicd lemon<br /><br />114. To Rost a Pike<br />Scale & slash a pike from head to<br />tail & lard it wth Eeles flesh rould in<br />spice & sweetherbs bast & bread it<br />roast it at length or turn his tail<br />into his mouth & bring it off in ye<br />oven let ye sauce be drawn butter<br />anchovys ye row & liver wth mushrooms<br />capers & oysters<br /><br />PAGE 51<br /><br />Potting<br /><br />115. To Pott Beef<br />Take a good buttock of beef or leg of<br />mutton piece cut into pieces & season<br />it wth savory spice an ounce of salt<br />peter ½ a pt of clarret yn having 3 or<br />4 pd of beef suet lay it between every<br />laying of beef tye a paper over it & let<br />lye all night yn bake it wth household<br />bread yn take it out & dry it in a cloth<br />cut it a cross ye grain very close & rub<br />it in yor hands like flower if it is not<br />seasond enough yn season it more yn [put]<br />to it ye fatt clear from ye gravy & mix it<br />together yn put it close in potts set it [in]<br />ye oven to setle wn cold cover it wth clarrifi[de]<br />butter<br /><br />116. To Pott Pidgeons<br />Yor pidgeons being truss & seasond wth<br />savory spice put ym in a pott cover ym<br /><br />PAGE 52<br />With butter & bake ym yn take ym out<br />& drain ym wn they are cold cover ym<br />wth clarrifide butter<br /><br />You may pott fish ye same way<br />only bone ym wn they are bakd<br /><br />Collaring<br /><br />117. To Collar Beef<br />Lay yor flank of beef in ham brine<br />8 or 10 days yn take it out & dry it in<br />a cloth cut it a cross ye grain very<br />lay it on a board take out all ye leather<br />and skin scotch it cross & cross & season<br />it wth savory spice 2 or 3 anchovys an<br />handfull or 2 of thyme parsely sweet<br />marjoram winter savory onions &<br />fennell strew it on ye meat & roul it<br />in an hard collar in a cloth sow it<br />close tye it at both ends & put it in<br />a collar pott wth a pt of clarrett &<br />cutchenele 2 qt s pump water &<br />bake it all night wn cold take it out of ye<br />cloth & keep it dry<br /><br />PAGE 53<br /><br />118. To Collar veal<br />Bone a breast of veal wash & soak [it]<br />in 3 or 4 waters dry it in a cloth & season<br />it wth savory spice shred sweetherbs & shr[ed]<br />sweetherbs rashers of bacon dipt in<br />ye batter of eggs & roul it up in a collar<br />in a cloth & boyle it wth water and salt [wth]<br />½ a pt of vineger & whole spice scum [&]<br />clean wn tis boyld take it up & wn cold<br />keep it in this pickle<br /><br />119. To Collar a Pigg<br />Slitt yor pigg down ye back take out ye<br />bones wash out ye blood in 3 or 4 waters<br />wipe it dry & season it wth savory spice<br />thyme parsley & salt roul it in an hard<br />collar in a cloth tye it close & put it [in]<br />a pott & boyle it in 3 pts of water an<br />handfull of salt a qt of vineger a<br />faggot of sweetherbs whole spice a p[enny]<br />worth of jceing glass wn they are ten[der]<br /><br />PAGE 54<br />Take ym off wn they are cold take it<br />out of ye clothe & keep it in this pickle<br /><br />120. To Collar Eeles<br />Scower yor large silver Eele wth salt slitt<br />ym down ye back take out all ye bones<br />wash & dry ym season ym wth savory spice<br />mincd parsley thyme sage & an onion yn<br />roul it in an hard collar in a cloth<br />tye ym close & boyle ym in water & salt<br />wth ye heads & bones & ½ a pt of vineger<br />a faggot of sweetherbs ginger a penny<br />worth of jceing glass wn they are tender<br />take ym up tye ym close again strain<br />ye pickle and keep ye Eeles in it<br /><br />121. To Collar Pork<br />Bone a breast of pork season it wth<br />savory spice & a good quantity of<br />thyme sage & parsley & a good quantity<br />roul it in an hard collar in a cloth<br />tye it close & boyle it wn tis cold keep<br />it in scoucing drink<br /><br />PAGE 55<br /><br />Pickles<br /><br />Note: These pickling methods are considered unsafe by today’s standards. Many foods require high temperature high pressure sterilisation in order to kill all potentially harmful bacteria.<br /><br />The practice of “Greening” pickles is extremely dangerous. It was considered that producing a bright green colour made for attractive pickles. “Bellmetal” is a mixture of copper and tin. When highly acidic mixtures come into contact with copper, then copper sulphate is produced. Copper sulphate gives a bright green colour, but is highly poisonous.<br /><br />122. To Pickle Mellons or Large<br />Cowcumbers<br />Scope ym at one end & take out ye pulp<br />clean & fill ym wth scrapt horseradish<br />sliced garlick ginger nutmeg whole pepp[er]<br />& large mace yn take for ye pickle<br />The best white wine vineger an hand<br />full of salt a quarterd nutmeg whole<br />pepper cloves & mace & 2 or 3 racers<br />of ginger boyld together<br />And pour it to ye mellons boyl[ing]<br />hott and stow ym down close 2 days wn you<br />intend to green ym set ym over ye fier in<br />a bellmetall pott in their pickle<br />till they are scalding hott & green yn<br />pour ym into yor potts stow ym down close<br />wn they are cold cover ym wth a wett bladder & [leather?]<br /><br />Thus Cover all other Pickles<br /><br />PAGE 56<br />123. To Pickle Gherkins<br />Put ym in a brine strong enough to bear<br />an egg yn drain ym & pour on ym ye same<br />pickle as ye mellons boyling hott<br />having some dill seeds in yor pott stow<br />ym down close 2 or 3 days yn green<br />ym in a bellmetall pott & cover ym close<br />as before<br /><br />124. To Pickle French beans<br />Put ym a month in brine strong enough<br />to bear an egg yn drain ym from ye brine<br />& having a pickle as ye mellons pour<br />it to ym boylin hott & green ym ye same<br />way<br /><br />125. To Pickle Walnuts<br />Scald ym & put ym in water & salt 9 or<br />10 days changing it every day yn take<br />ym out & rub ym in a course cloth<br />& pour on ym ye same pickle as ye<br />mellons boyling hott ading thereto<br />a little mustard seed<br /><br />PAGE 57<br />126. To Pickle Mushrooms<br />Take yor small hard buttons cut ye<br />dirt from ye bottoms of ye stalks w[ash]<br />ym wth water & salt & milk & rub ym wth<br />flannell yn put ym into another pan of<br />salt water & milk & rub ym till they a[re]<br />clean yn boyle salt water & milk wn<br />boyls thro’ in yor mushroom s & wn they<br />are boyld quick & white strain ym thro’<br />a cloth & throw ym into water & salt 2<br />or 3 days changing it twice a day yn take<br />ye pickle be half whitewine & half vine[ger]<br />wth slicd nutmeg ginger whole pepper<br />& cloves yn stop ym up in glasses<br /><br />126. To Pickle Beetroot & turnip<br />Boyle yor beetroot in water & salt a pt of<br />vineger a little cutchenele wn they are<br />half boyled put in ye turnips being<br />peard wn they are boyled take ym off ye<br />fier & keep ym in this pickle.<br /><br />PAGE 58<br />127. To Pickle red Cabbatch<br />Slice ye cabbatch thin & put to it a<br />cold pickle of vineger & spice<br /><br />128. To Pickle Flowers<br />Pickle ym in half white wine & half vineger<br />& sugar<br /><br />129. To Pickle onions<br />Boyld yor small white onions in water<br />& salt strain & coole ym in a cloth yn let<br />ye pickle be vineger & spice cold<br /><br />130. To Pickle Barberries<br />Pickle ym being pickt in fine branches<br />only in water & salt strong enough to bear an<br />egg<br />131. To Pickle Smelts<br />Lay ym in a pan in rows lay on ym slicd<br />lemon ginger nutmeg mace a little<br />pepper & salt & bay leaves powderd<br />let ye pickle be red wine vineger<br />bruisd cuchenele & peter salt you<br />may eat ym as anchovys<br /><br />PAGE 59<br /><br />132. To Pickle Oysters<br />Take a qt of large oysters in ye full [of]<br />ye moon perboyld in their own liquor<br />for ye pickle take ye liquor a pt of white<br />wine & vineger mace pepper & salt boy[le]<br />& scum it wn cold keep ym in this pickle<br /><br />133. To Pickle Pidgeons<br />Boyle ym wth whole spice 3 pts of water<br />a pt of white wine & vineger wn boyld<br />take ym up & wn cold keep ym in this<br />pickle<br /><br />134. To Pickle Tongues<br />Blanch ym being boyld in water & salt<br />& put ym in a pott or barrell & make<br />ye pickle of as much white wine vineg[er]<br />as will fill it boyld up wth savory spice<br />ginger nutmeg a faggot of sweetherbs<br />wn cold put in ye tongues wth slicd lemon<br />& cover it close<br /><br />PAGE 60<br />When you eat ym beat up some of<br />ye liquor wth good oil & garsh it wth slicd lemon<br /><br />135. To Salt hams & Tongues<br />Take 3 or 4 gallons of water & put<br />to it 4 pd of white salt 4 pd of bay<br />salt a pd of peter salt a quarter of<br />a pd of salt peter 2 ounces of prun-<br />-nela salt & a pd of brown sugar let<br />it boyle a quarter of an hour scum<br />it well wn tis cold sever it from ye<br />bottome into ye vessel you keep it in<br /><br />Let hams lye in this pickle 4<br />or 5 weeks<br />A clod of dutch beef as long<br />Tongues a fortnight<br />Collard beef 8 or 10 days<br /><br />Dry ym in a ston or wood Chimney<br /><br />PAGE 61<br /><br />Jellies<br /><br />136. Hart Horn Jelley<br />Put a ½ pd of harts horn into an Earth[en]<br />pan wth 2 qts of spring water cover it<br />close set it in ye oven all night yn strain<br />it in to a clean pipkin wth ½ a pt of rhen[ish]wine & ½ a pd of double refind sugar<br />ye juice of 2 or 3 lemons & 3 or 4 blades<br />of mace & ye whits of 4 or 5 eggs well<br />beat & mix it that it curdle not yn stir[r]<br />it well together on ye fier yn stirr it<br />let it stand over ye fier till it ari[seth]<br />wth a thick scum yn run it thro’ a napk[in]<br />& turn it up again till tis all clear<br /><br />137. Calves foot Jelley<br />Boyle yor calves feet in water wth ye<br />meat cut off from ye bones season it<br />as ye harts horn jelley wn cold take<br />ye fatt from ye top & ye dross from ye bottome<br /><br />PAGE 62<br />138. Ribbon Jelley<br />Is made wth ye colourd jellies hearafter<br />mencond first run one of these colours<br />in a glass wn tis cold run another<br />as cold as you can & yn another & so all<br />ye rest<br /><br />139. To Run Coulours<br />Have in yor severall small pipkins<br />strong jelley ready seasond have allso<br />severall muslain raggs tyed up close<br />one wth bruisd cutchenele another wth<br />saffron & another wth spinnage juice<br />put your baggs into yor severall pipkins<br />& as you would ye colours rise fine<br />ym wth ye whites of eggs & run ym thro’<br />severall baggs<br /><br />140. Blamangoes<br />Put ½ a pd of harts horn into an Earthen<br />pipkin wth 2 qts of spring water yn<br />run ye jelley thro’ a napkin put to it<br />½ a pd of jordan almonds well beat<br /><br />PAGE 63<br />Mix wth it orange flower water a [pt ]<br />of milk or cream ye juice of 2 or 3<br />lemons & double refind sugar let it<br />simer over ye fier & take care least it<br />burn to run it thro’ a sive 2 or 3 times<br />put it in glasses & colour it if you please<br /><br />141. A Whipt Sillabub<br />Take a pt of cream wth a spoonfull of<br />orange flower water 2 or 3 ounces of<br />fine sugar ye juice of a lemon ye white<br />of 3 eggs these wisk these up together<br />& having in yor glasses rhennish wine<br />& sugar & clarret & sugar lay on ye<br />froth wth a spoon heapt up as leight as<br />you can<br /><br />142. A Sack Posset<br />Take 14 eggs leave out half ye whites<br />& beat ym wth a quarter of a pd of white<br />sugar orringoe root slicd very fine<br />thin wth a quarter of a pt of sack<br /><br />PAGE 64<br />Mix it well together set in on ye<br />fier & keep it stirring all one way<br />wn tis scalding hott let another whilst<br />you stirr it pour into it a qt of cream<br />boyling hott wth a grated nutmeg<br />boyld in it clap a hot pye plate<br />on it let it stand a quarter of an<br />hour<br /><br />143. Chocolate Cream<br />Take a pt of cream wth a spoonfull<br />of scrapt chocolate boyle ym well<br />together mix ym wth ye yolks of 2 eggs &<br />thicken & mill it on ye fier yn pour<br />it into yor chocolate cups<br /><br />144. Lemon cream<br />Take ye juice of 2 or 3 lemons & boyle<br />some of ye piele in spring water yn take<br />ye same quantity of that water as<br />lemon juice put to it orange flower<br />water ½ a pd of double refind sugar<br />yn beat ye whites of 12 eggs & strain ym<br /><br />PAGE 65<br />Then mix ym together & keep it stirring<br />all one way over a charcole fier till ti[s]<br />pritty thick yn put it in glasses<br />Orange cream is made ye same way<br />only thickend wth yolks of eggs instead<br />of whites<br /><br />145. Orange Butter<br />Take ye yolks of 5 hard eggs put to it<br />a pd of butter a little fine sugar wth<br />a spoonfull of orange flower water<br />work it thro’ a sive<br />Almond and pistastia butter is made ye<br />same way but let ym be blanchd & pounded<br /><br />146. To Codle Codlings<br />Put yor fair codlings in a brass pan<br />wth water over a charcole fier till<br />tis scalding hott keep ym close coverd<br />wn they will skin yn skin ym & put ym<br />in again wth a little vineger & let ym lye<br />till they are green<br /><br />PAGE 66<br />147. To Bottle Goosberries<br />When they are full grown before<br />they turn fill ym into wide mouth<br />bottles cork ym close & set ym in a<br />slack oven till they are tender &<br />some crackt yn take ym out & pitch<br />ye corks<br /><br />Thus you may keep Damsons<br />bulles pears plums or currants<br />only doe these wn they are ripe<br /><br />PAGE 67 (not numbered in manuscript)<br /><br />The Order<br />First Dishes<br />Bottom Dishes<br />Pottages of all sorts<br />A chine of veal or mutton<br />a dish of fish<br />a jaggot of mutton<br />beans & bacon<br />a neck of veal<br />a ham & chicken<br />pidgeons in surtout<br />pullets & oysters<br />puddings of sorts<br />boyled tongues & udders<br />roast beef: mincd pyes<br />a leg of veal bacon herbs<br />cold ham: slicd tongues<br />a colves head bacon herbs<br />a venison pasty<br />a calves head hashd<br />potted meats or fouls<br />a goose or turkey ala daub<br />cold lobster salmon<br />a leg of veal or mutton<br />or sturgeon<br />ala daub: a bisk of pidgeons<br />a haunch of venison<br />a forcd leg of veal boyld<br />a leg of mutton roasted<br />a powderd haunch of venison<br />oysters: lamb in [joynts]<br />a powderd leg of pork<br />a chine & turkey<br />a leg of mutton & turnips<br />roast tongues & udders<br />a piece of salt beef carrots<br />chickens & asparragus<br />pullets bacon & cabbatch<br />hens wth eggs<br />boyld fouls & marrowbons<br />a roast pike<br /><br />PAGE 68 (not numbered in manuscript)<br /><br />Side Dishes<br />For ye midle<br />Bombarded veal<br />of the Table<br />scotcht collops<br /><br />a forcd leg of lamb<br /><br />cutlets ala maintenoy<br />A Grand Sallad<br />cutlets forcd<br />of pickles<br />frigaseese white or brown<br />a hott or cold pye<br />a ragooe of any sort<br />tarts chees cakes<br />a tourt or tansie<br />puffs & custards<br />pease beans or french ^ beans<br />jellies creams<br />scollopt oysters<br />& blamangoes<br />ollives of veal<br />a dish of fruits<br />carp in a ragooe<br />a patty of lobsters<br />chickens ala cream<br />cold lobsters<br />a ponpetone<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />PAGE 69 (not numbered in manuscript)<br /><br />Second Course<br />Plates<br />A dish of wild foul<br />A ponpetone<br />green geese or ducklings<br />oyster loves<br />roast chickens or pidgeons<br />tourts of marrow or cream<br />lamb in joynts<br />cutlets<br />fryd fish<br />olives of veal<br />turkey pouts<br />patties of oysters<br />leverits partridges<br />crawfish prawns or<br />cocks or snips<br />shrimps<br />fesants quails larks<br />fritters of aprecocks<br />batterd lobsters or crabs<br />oysters onion tansie<br />artichokes boyld<br />polonia sausages<br />asparragus & eggs<br />slicd tongues<br />scollopt oysters<br />solmon gundy<br />pitty patties<br />potting collaring<br />a tourt or tansie<br />or pickles of any sort<br />tarts cheescakes<br />marrow or spinnage ???<br />puffs & custards<br />veal puffs<br />a dish of pease<br />sweetbreads larded<br />a ragooe of mushrooms<br />& roasted<br />lobsters ragoode or roasted<br /><br /><br />PAGE 70 (not numbered in manuscript)<br /><br />Index<br />Forcd Meat balls - 1<br />All sorts of past - 4<br />Sweet pyes - 5<br />Savory pyes - 8<br />Cold pyes - 12<br />Fish pyes - 13<br />Pasties - 15<br />Florendines & puddings -16<br />Cakes - 22<br />Broths -24<br />Made dishes - 33<br />To dress fish - 48<br />Potting - 51<br />Collaring -52<br />Pickles - 55<br />Jellies - 61<br /><br />PAGE 70 (not numbered in manuscript)<br /><br />(Transcriber’s note: this page is written in a different hand from the rest of the manuscript. I have not yet been able to fathom the handwriting, but it appears to be part of a recipe for a pudding or cake)<br /><br />6 ounces of flower ????? quart milk<br />6 or eight eggs ???? little ?????<br />???? ???? for butter</p>The Old Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00766403052971301718noreply@blogger.com5